Friday, August 15, 2008

The country that never sleeps

So. It's 1:30am. Over the past week I have slept perhaps 4 hours a night (and I am a person who prefers 10 or 12, when possible). And yet, instead of curling up with my borrowed cats in my fabulously empty guest room chez amigo/caretaker amiga (how's that for mixed up linguistics....is there a spanish word for "chez"?)...I am writing on my blog.

Why? Why Meredith? (you ask). Well, blog reader, (I reply) apparently Chile is contagious.

There is some sort of super-human gene in your average Chilean that allows them to function perfectly well on approximately 10 minutes of sleep per night. I am absolutely dumbfounded by the hours that are kept here. Let's take a look at a Composite Sample day based on various people I know:

5:30am. Wake up. Shower. Eat breakfast.
6:15 - 7:30am. Stand in ridiculously packed micro on the way to a job in some inconvenient location.
7:30am - 7pm. Work. Or, be at your place of work, even if there is no work to be done, because butts in chairs have symbolic value.
7pm - 8:45pm. Ride home in ridiculously crowded micro through rush hour traffic.
8:45- 9pm. Relax.
9pm - 9:30pm. Eat onces (something approximately an afternoon snack which takes dinner's place, to my chagrin) and talk rapidly.
9:30pm - 12am. Study for some degree that you are working on, and/or work on your home-run business.
12am - 4am. Night clubbing, we're night clubbing...
5:30am. Repeat.

I am rather in awe of all this. Generally I leave clubs at the time when everyone else is showing up (around 2am, in most cases). I have also at times been at parties which then turn into outings....at 4am. After a night like that, I am generally out of whack and worthless for the next few days, and in need of a few weeks' rest before I'm up for another round.

However, Chile is getting to me. At the moment I have 3 jobs and a side project. I have met more new people in the last two weeks than I did in my first 2 months in Valpo...and I've been seeing both the new friends and the old regularly. My life has suddenly turned into a no-rest-zone. And yet I seem to be addicted (see timestamp on this entry).

A current composite day in the life of this chilenacized gringa:

6:20am. Wake up. Curse the fact. Reset alarm. (some things never change)
6:40am. Wake up again. Realize that lateness is becoming a threat. Take a shower. Loose showerhead falls on head at least once. More cursing.
6:50 - 7:30am. Put on clothes. Check weather. Put on other clothes. Wander around room picking up and putting away various teaching-related items, trying to clear the fog and figure out what exactly I am being paid to do on this particular day.
8 - 11am. Bounce around while speaking very slowly to 18 students who find me amusing on a good day, and crazy on any.
11am - 12pm. Ride micro to the office of distant employer.
12pm - 1pm. Have brief meeting with said employer.
1pm - 2pm. Ride micro back to Valpo.
2pm - 3pm. Have coffee with a friend.
3pm - 4pm. Spanish class.
4pm - 6pm. Get to a computer and churn out a combination of copy writing for distant employer, worksheets for evening students, and update emails for side project.
6pm - 7:30pm. Speak at a moderate rate about maritime terms with tired students.
7:30 - 9pm. Eat food that a cooking-prone friend generously proffers. Talk sh*t.
9pm - 12:30am. Go out to a bar or social gathering with some combination of friends.
12:30 -3:30am. Continue various emails, content generating, and so forth for side project. Write a bit more silly copy.
3:30am. Fall asleep with computer still on the bed.
6:20am. Wake up with even redder eyes, achier head, and incoherent mind. Cursing. And repeat.

So, I'm now rather convinced that I have somehow been infected by the prevalent Chilean motivation to be either at work or socializing at every moment that that it is physically possible to fight off gravity. I also seem to have come down with a case of the "DIY employment" entrepreneurship that is so incredibly present here (more on this cultural trait later, as it deserves a proper post).

Unfortunately I have not caught the unreal resistance to fatigue and its side-effects that most people here exhibit. For instance, I once had a woman come to an 8am class after working two shifts in a row---meaning she had been working since 3pm the previous day. All throughout class, her eyes would start to close and her head would start to drop.....and then she'd pull herself back up and conjugate some verbs.

Well, hat's off, Chile. I don't know how you all do it. I'm going to stop pretending I can, and hopefully regain some of my lost functioning ability.

12 comments:

Matt said...

well at least you appear to have a nice house to relax in these days...those cats sound cute as well...and that friend who cooks...

I miss Valpo.

Meredith said...

Yes it's true. I'm sure you'd like both the cats and my friend. Just a hunch.

Matt said...

And my house.

lydia said...

haha. i think you have a really outlier-ly motivated or battery-powered group of chileans you socialized with, or rather, doing a composite, you ended up with all of the ¨events¨haha and the down time and wasted time got thrown out of the picture.. most of the chileans i know do WAY less on any given day. (hahaha except the butts in the chair thing holds true almost without exception).
haha, plus i think things like line-waiting might almost merit its own category in the same sense that micro riding did.

p.d. these word verifications are getting harder every day. pretty soon im not giong to pass blogspots ¨real human¨test

Meredith said...

Yes, Matt, thank you for letting me borrow your cats, girlfriend, and house. I'm just keeping everyone well socialized for your return. The girlfriend of course I intend to continue having some claim to. But now that everything else's grown on me you're going to have to invite me over more often.

lydia, I definitely hear you....I also know some super sedentary Chileans, and some just sort of low-key Chileans....but the ones that I know that are active are ACTIVE!! It's kind of a one-way-or-the-other deal I suppose?
and...haha...I just also failed the human test!!!

Matt said...

you stole my life. i'd like most of it back on my return, please. some of it you can keep. we'll work out the details at a later date...

Meredith said...

I stole nothing. You left it lying around unattended.

Matt said...

And anything left unattended for a couple of minutes gets stolen, right? When in Rome...

Meredith said...

Hasn't anyone told you that Valparaíso is FULL TO THE BRIM with LAWLESS, RUTHLESS DELINQUENTS!!!! ? You should probably move to Viña, it's super duper safe there and they have a mall, which is the mark of an excellent location.

Matt said...

valpo used to be safe when it was just chileans and 'good' (English) foreign immigrants. recently, however, there's been a massive influx of americans. not only do they steal local jobs, they are also all drug addicts or otherwise involved in the drug trade and are the cause of 99% of all crime in the city. gringos go home.

Meredith said...

So YOU'RE the one who put that grafitti up on Almirante Montt....

The truth outs.

cavils in chile said...

the chileno schedule is hysterical